I received an early Christmas gift from my dad today. It came in the form of a DHL package, inside are books carefully wrapped in gift wraps; one of them was a cook book called Nonya Flavors: A Complete Guide to Penang Straits Chinese Cuisine by Julie Wong.
It’s a collection of Peranakan cuisine from Penang, which is a big part of my heritage. I was born in Penang. My grandparents lived in Penang for all of their lifetime and this cookbook, although new, is like the only reminder I have left of them, in a very sad way. All the recipes were buried together with my grandmother the day her coffin was let into the ground. And so did most of the traditions that she upheld.
I never realized how much my family life revolves around food until today. I mean, I did know it played a big part but what caught me by surprise was the overwhelming feeling of familiarity and comfort flushing within me as I read through the cook book. Its introduction page consisted of a short history of the Peranakan lifestyle, scattered beautifully with pictures that reminded me vividly of a memory that was lost. All the plates, the wood fire stove, the china, the spoons, the kuehs, the festivals…..
For a moment, while I poured through the pages, I was ashamed of myself. I had allowed these memories to be buried deep within me that I no longer remember them. I haven’t thought about the kebayas, the sarong and the intricate metal belt my grandmother wore to keep her sarong in place. I haven’t thought about the designs and various chinas that adorn my grandfather’s collection. And that cabinet in the kitchen filled with nonya-wares used for special occasions and festive seasons. I haven’t thought about the familiar smell of my grandmother’s kitchen since the grand old house got torn down; now replaced by apartment blocks as far as the eye can see.
I just haven’t thought about my heritage for a long time. It pains me to have these memories rushed back into my brain like waves of tsunami.
I remember how I laughed with joy and wonder every time i was back in Penang in my grandmother’s kitchen on the eve of Chinese New Year. The chopping, the sizzling, the hot kitchen bustling with my grandmother, unmarried uncles and grand aunts preparing for the big day. Lor Bak, Kiam Chye Ark, Gulai Kay, Jiu Hu Char, Pnee Hu Char, Hu Pio Th’ng, Loh Hon Chai, Chap Chye Th’ng, Perut Ikan, Too Tor Th’ng, Assam Heh, Sio Ark, Sio Kay, Sio Bak……. all this, while my grandfather sat on his rattan rocking chair with his mug of hot water, rocking gently unaffected by the clamoring noises.
Somehow, all that seemed like a long time ago. And yet, I can still smell my grandmother’s kitchen and hear the bustling sound of utensils and knives knocking around like gongs when I close my eyes.
I felt that feeling of anticipation swelling up inside me again, the same feeling I had felt as a little girl, face plastered with chui hoon, dressed in her newest night gown. I was waiting for the new day to arrive of red, firecrackers and ang paus so I can flaunt my new clothes and new shoes in front of my grandparents.
And how they loved me so much.
***
I am glad I have this book now. I was a little young when I savored all these food my grandmother made but I think I can still remember the tastes. I am sad because I know that my taste buds may not be as accurate and what I taste right may only be a half-right.
I see it so clearly how at every generation, our heritage (gastronomic or not) gets halved with the newer generation. My father could still remember his mother’s hong bak recipe but he could never replicate it, while my mother tries her best to replicate the recipe, her efforts are appreciated but the results are halved – something is always missing.
And in a way when it is passed down to me… it is further halved …. my children may not know what their great grandparents’ heritage use to be anymore except for what they read in wikipedia about Peranakan heritage. They will never get to taste that authenticity in my grandmother’s recipes because I cannot reproduce what she did.
BUT…with this book, I can reproduce them again and adjust until my taste buds tell me it is just right.
I love Nonya food, esp Chap Chai….you have me drooling there even at the mention of those dishes.
I am happy and glad this Nyonya cookery book gives you so much memories of grandpa and grandma and our nyonya food heritage. While at MPH bookstore, I went searching for a good cooking book, I came across all the famous chefs with their recipes but I settled for this one because I know deep inside you will love it very much. I really miss authentic nyonya food. Yes, this book brought back good old memories of our humble beginings in Penang. I am deeply touch by your writings in your blog about those memories of Grandma and Grandpa during their times in that old house in Penang and the kitchen area where grandma cooked all our meals. Those recipes inside this nyonya book are for you to try out your nyonya cooking skills and carry on with nyonya cooking styles at least. It bring me to tears of all those good old memories when the old folks were around. You are right, we will eventually forget all these good dishes if we do not remind ourselves we are Penang Babas and Nyonyas. How I wish you are here in Malaysia right now to try out those dishes from this Nyonya cooking book.
hey daddy, you left a comment hehe…i will be back soon, then we can try all the recipe and have a feast.
tigerfish: Yea, lo hon chai is my favorite dish too among others
So cool of your dad to read your blogs and leave a comment. Merry Christmas to Daddy Elaine.
Hey Elsie, merry xmas to you too! I’ll pass the message to my dad, he just comes read the blog once in a while
Hi..its my first glimpse of yr blog…yr dad is really wonderful to present u this recipe book…i’ve bought this book a year ago…and have try out some of the recipes…i love nyonya food even i’m not a nyonya…
Hey Elsie, thanks for your Xmas greetings. And hello to Tigerfish too.
Merry Xmas to all.
sweet jasmine: Thanks for dropping by, i saw your blog too and laughed when i read about the camera you got to scare your maid. I’ve yet to try the recipes on the book, but I will when I go back. Can’t wait
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!!!!
Sweet Lord ganesha LOL – You are a baba Nyonya – i KNEW it — shitee…… you are truely some1 i should meet- please drop me a line on my email when your coming back to PEnang
Mery X`mas –
You dads Cool
Hai uncle
This is an outstanding post. I think that you have identified how much what we cook and how we cook is a tribute to our heritage and a way to honor the memory of those dear grandparents of ours who made our lives a treasure. Congratulations and enjoy the Journey back to all of those memories as you pass them on to further generations.
Andy
Oooo – I’ve got this book too! I love it – though I’ve never made anything from it! I just drool at the photos ! It reminds me of my grandma & mum’s cooking as well!
What a coincidence – we just cooked the jiu hu char recipe out of this book. It is an excellent collection and, like you, brings back lots of memories for Annie.
nate-n-annie: It is a great cookbook, a treasured one
I have never loved this book so much until I read your blogs. How I miss Penang !
Hey Paulene, thanks for dropping by the blog. I miss Penang too! Where are you from?